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Dustless Blasting University

Sit back and enjoy our training videos. Learn the operation, blasting techniques and maintenance of our Dustless Blasters. 

What training are you interested in?

Machine Specific Training

Take a look through our library of resources that will help you learn the best practices and tips for your particular machine.

General Operation

Learn the basics and the best methods for general use of the Dustless Blaster from the most experienced professionals.

Plus.jpg How to rotate the pinch hose

The Pinch Hose is a crucial part of your blaster's operating system, and what stops the machine from blasting. It is designed to be an inexpensive and easy to replace wear part. Where other systems have a complicated, costly, proprietary part that is difficult to replace, we have only an 18 inch section of blast hose. The pinch hose should be rotated and visually inspected regularly, and should be replaced at the first signs of wear.

Plus.jpg How to adjust media flow

Wet Blasting: Start with Outlet Pipe 1/2 inch above locked position, and adjust in 1/16 inch increments until media runs out before water. Courser media will require a higher Outlet Pipe setting.
Dry Blasting: Start with outlet pipe 3/8 inch above locked position and adjust in 1/16 inch increments until you reach the desired productivity to use ratio. Setting will be closer to 1/8 inch for fine media and up to 3/4 inch for course media.

Plus.jpg Which Blast Media should be used

Dustless Blasting allows you to use a wide variety of abrasives. Generally any abrasive that sinks in water and is not water soluble can be used. However, abrasives that are dirty or have a very inconsistent particle size can cause problems.
Typically, one of our favorite abrasives is recycled bottle glass. However, because of the way recycled bottle glass is processed, we don't recommend using anything below 40/70. If you need a finer grit than that we recommend sugar sand, glass bead, or fine garnet. The video to the right explains a little more about finding the right type of abrasive for use in your Dustless Blaster.

Plus.jpg Adjusting Blast Pressure

The Dustless Blasting system allows you to easily change the blast pressure by turning one simple knob. The higher the pressure is, the higher your productivity. Obviously lower pressures are more gentle on whatever substrate you're blasting. If you need to blast on softer material or very thin metal, lowering the pressure is a good idea to prevent damage.
A clockwise rotation of the pressure regulator knob will increase the pressure, while a counter clockwise rotation will lower pressure. If you try to lower the pressure while the blast tank is pressurized, you'll need to either have someone blast simultaneously, or just open the blowdown valve slightly to release some of that pressure. The video to the right will show you how to adjust the blast pressure.

Plus.jpg How to properly use the Rust Inhibitor

Dustless Blasting is an amazing process which is faster, cleaner, and more economical than traditional dry abrasive blasting. The water in the Dustless process can promote rust, but we can easily prevent this by using the Dustless Blasting Rust Inhibitor.
Not only does proper use of the Rust Inhibitor prevent oxidation, but it also leaves a perfect paint or primer ready surface. Rust Inhibitor does what it does not by coating the metal with a rust proof barrier, but by completely removing chlorides from the metal. As long as you don't recontaminate the metal you'll be rust free for up to 72 hours.
Rust inhibitor needs to be mixed with the blast water in a 1/100 ratio, which is about 7 oz for every 5 gallons. This prevents chlorides from being embedded into the metal during blasting, but after blasting is complete you still need to give it a final rinse. We like to use a fertilizer sprayer that screws onto a water hose and measures out the selected amount of rust inhibitor per gallon. The one we've used is on the left, and you can buy it from Home Depot. An even easier solution if you own one of our Mobile units is to add the rust inhibitor into the water tank, and rinse the metal with our superfast water pump and a hose. After the rinse down it’s important to make sure all the standing water is removed from the metal, so that it can air dry. We use an electric leaf blower for this. As long as nothing recontaminates the metal (water, dew, body oils, etc.) rust will stay away for up to 72 hours. It is a good idea to try to prime the metal as soon as possible after blasting.

Plus.jpg Suggested Blast Pressures

Different materials and coatings call for different pressures or blasting distances. Thick metal can handle a lot of pressure, while sheet metal could be dented by using too much pressure. Simple paint may come off nicely with the nozzle far away, while tough undercoating may come off better with the nozzle closer.
The distance you hold the blast nozzle from the material affects the harshness and speed of the blast and changes the "blast pattern" size. If you hold the nozzle too far away, the blast pattern will be big, but the coating will come off too slowly. If you hold the nozzle too close, the coating will come off quickly, but the blast pattern will be small. With a tiny blast pattern you'll have to move your arms a lot more to cover some area, which is inefficient. The best things is to find a nice balance between blast pattern size and removal speed.

Plus.jpg How to adjust tension on the abrasive lever

Eventually it is possible for the abrasive lever to become loose and lose the ability to lock down. This is due to the nuts and bolts that hold it in place vibrating loose over time. It's a fairly simple matter to fix, and the video will show you how.
1. Loosen the nut on the top of the rocker arm.
2. Tighten the bottom nut, pulling the rocker arm back down.
3. Lock down the abrasive lever and see if there is adequate tension.
4. Once tension is good, tighten the top nut to lock it in place.

Plus.jpg How and when to empty the blast tank

If you will not be using your Dustless Blaster for an extended period of time, it is a good idea to empty it of water and media.
There are two ways to do this. One way is to simply blast it out. You can remove the nozzle from the blast hose to speed this process up, but make sure to hold on tight! Without the nozzle there to restrict airflow, the recoil can be rather strong.
If there is still a lot of media and / or water in the machine and you don't want to waste diesel blasting it out, you may also remove theflange at the bottom of the blast pot's cone to let it all drain out.
1. Fully depressurize machine
2. Remove 2 bolts from bottom of machine
3. Remove 2 “ears” from bottom of machine
4. Remove air inlet jet (looks like a pilgrim hat)
5. Remove gasket
6. Push casting and air hose out of the way
7. Flush out inside of equipment with water

Once media and water are out of machine, reverse procedure:
1. Put gasket on air inlet jet
2. Insert air inlet jet and gasket
3. Hold casting up to bottom of machine
4. Use ears and bolts to re-secure casting